FOOD

“Hot girl food”: How food porn changed in 2022


When Supreme Court Justice Potter Stewart was asked to explain the obscenity test in 1964, he replied, “You can see it.” The same can be said for her porn for the last decade or so.

The term “food porn” was apparently coined by feminist critic Rosalind Coward in her 1984 book, Women’s Desires. She writes that cooking food and making it look beautiful is often an act of service, demonstrating “a joyful participation in serving others.”

“Food porn maintains precisely these meanings associated with food preparation,” wrote Coward. is always beautifully lit and often retouched.”

Over time, especially in the age of social media, the phrase’s meaning has been flattened. It loses a lot of relevance to the interrogation of domestic labor, and instead images come to mind of decadent chocolate cake slices dripping with glistening chocolate syrup or his three-tiered cheeseburgers oozing with cheddar cheese. . Food porn turns into a comically large blob of butter that melts the outlines of a giant stack of pancakes and a rack of spice-rubbed ribs coated in sticky barbecue sauce. It became “cheese pull” and “egg yolk porn.” I made a slow motion video of him gently pushing the tip of a fork into the yellow center of a fried egg to Marvin Gaye’s “Let’s Get It On.” It was embarrassing.

But something changed.

Canned fish is “hot girl food” (as is oatmeal and buttered toast). Gorgeous and gorgeous girls love soup. Also, the Negroni Her Subaliato with Prosecco has attracted drinkers across the country. Food porn aesthetics have changed. This intersects with, or perhaps caused by, changes in food being seen as “sexy.”

In 2010, Amanda Simpson, creator of the site Food Porn Daily, told The Daily Meal that food porn was classified as “drooling stuff”. defined.


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These definitions of “food porn” are further tied to the earlier term “gastro porn.” The late journalist Alexander He Cockburn used the words “excited” and “unattainable” to describe it. Porn. The sex depicted in most mainstream porn can often be comfortably defined as a performance. There are often costumes, acrobatics, and even narrative pretentiousness to enhance that rendition.

In many ways, food porn has traditionally mimicked the template of whetting desire through performative fantasy. A quick search for the hashtag #foodporn on Instagram returns 292,896,962 results. Most of it doesn’t show the kind of foods most of us eat every day. French fries covered in pork floss, an incredibly tall layer cake. Many are captioned with variations of the query “smash or pass”.

In a culture that values ​​thinness and promotes deprivation as a virtue to achieve it, food porn of its ilk offers a kind of taste voyeur.

As noted in Signe Rousseau’s Food ‘pornography’ in the media, published in 2014 as part of The Encyclopedia of Ethics in Food and Agriculture, the connotations of ‘food pornography’ In cases, it means guilty pleasure or forgivable indulgence. So in a culture that values ​​thinness and promotes deprivation as a virtue to achieve it, food porn of its ilk offers a sort of taste voyeur.

As Molly O’Neill wrote in 2003, “Given the cacophony between food fantasies and everyday eating, the birth of food porn was almost inevitable.”

This new genre of food porn — expensive canned sardines, pots of citrus-speckled beans, fizzy cocktails — may seem restrained or even sexless in the face of its predecessors. No, it’s just playing into a different kind of fantasy. Shaped largely by the pandemic.

In early 2020, the monotony and isolation left many feeling unstable and desexualized. Harling Ross succinctly told fashion magazine Mann Repeller: she wrote:

My three main activities are sleeping, working, eating, and rewatching Game of Thrones (currently on season 4, thanks for following this journey). I haven’t worn elastic-waisted trousers in the last few weeks. The word “eyeliner” may sound like “googoogeeksejkak.” I mean, forgive me…the latest two pics I have on my phone are of a large tangle of hair that I’m choosing to ignore, and a piece of quiche.I was too lazy to eat something cold at 3:25pm microwaveNot hot – literally.

To combat this, there was a distinct period during the first wave of the pandemic when everyday household activities and products that evoke a certain casual coolness were romanticized. I didn’t look to the ridiculously decadent meals prepared by It contained canned sardines stuffed with olive oil.

As Bettina Makalintal reported at VICE in 2021, canned fish has surged in popularity amid the pandemic. Part of this was for convenience. The pandemic has caused us all to rethink the types of food we keep in our pantries. I’m here.

As she wrote, Caroline Goldfarb, co-founder of trendy fish canning company Fishwife, called it “the ultimate hot girl food,” in a 2021 interview with Nylon. “Nothing makes you hotter than canned food,” she said. “Straight up. Do you know any hot girls who don’t drink protein? I don’t know.”

I didn’t set my sights on ridiculously decadent meals prepared by restaurants (or by influencers). It contained canned sardines stuffed with olive oil.

“One of the risks of spending time on social media in the post-Megan Thee Stallion world is to become obsessed with describing everything as an extension of ‘hot girl s**t.’ The expressions ‘summer’ and ‘hot girl’ are now more than indicators of attractiveness, they are arousal of confidence and ownership of one’s place in the world. ”

She continues:

As Goldfarb’s comments suggest, much of it runs parallel to current wellness trends and is guided by a desire for more authenticity (or at least the illusion of authenticity). , is also reflected in a shift in aesthetics across food media, described by Zoe Suen in February 2022 as “lo-fi food.”

“Online, a plate in my Instagram feed shot by a chef, home cook, food stylist, or diner looks much more lo-fi,” Suen wrote in AnOther. We shifted gears from a bird’s-eye view of the film to a seemingly unfiltered frame filled with negative space.”

This paradigm is “a reaction to the moment before it,” New York-based artist Laila Gohar told Suen. and carved butter. “Gohar says people are craving a simplified and comfortable approach in the wake of the pandemic,” Suen wrote.

Even the whimsical food trends of 2022 are coming from that place. Aperol spritz, for example, speaks to an ambitious desire to vacation in and out of years of lockdown and a growing cultural interest in softer drinks.

“Many ardent aficionados, including the NYT, called the drink a ubiquitous Internet trend that was destined to die as quickly as it began. The pandemic was supposed to be the final nail in the coffin. Paste. “But we believe that happiness is at the forefront of our consciousness. [and] desperate itching [up] In the sun, Aperol found it hit the sweet spot (again). This is an affordable drink that can keep up with long conversations without being flashy or overly intoxicating. ”

It’s a more subtle temptation, but a temptation nonetheless. It will be interesting to see what 2023 brings in terms of seduction.

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